DMA Fuser Setup Guide

Physical wiring, EDID configuration, firmware updates, and troubleshooting for all major fuser brands

A DMA fuser is a standalone FPGA device that composites two video signals into a single monitor output using real-time black color keying. It sits between both PCs and your display, replacing the direct GPU to monitor connection. Because the overlay compositing happens at the hardware signal level, it is invisible to any software running on the gaming PC, including screen capture and anti-cheat systems. This guide covers setup for DICHEN, GODLIKE, CaptainDMA and generic fusers.

How fusers work

The fuser accepts two HDMI (or DP) inputs and produces one output. Inside, an FPGA processes both video streams in real time. Your gaming PC's feed serves as the base layer. Your second PC's feed, rendered on a pure black background, serves as the upper layer.

The FPGA performs black color removal (an RGB cutout) on the upper layer: any pixel at or near RGB (0,0,0) becomes transparent, letting the game image show through. Only the non-black overlay elements (ESP boxes, text, lines) are composited on top.

The cutout intensity is adjustable across 21 levels (0 to 20) via physical buttons on the fuser. Higher intensity removes more near-black pixels, which helps eliminate dark desktop remnants but can also cut into dark game elements. The fuser adds under 3ms of processing latency according to manufacturer specs.

Fuser models

DICHEN (the dominant brand)

Model	Max Resolution	Interfaces	EDID	Price
V6 HDMI	4K@60 / 2K@144 / 1080p@240	2x HDMI in, 1x HDMI out	Automatic	$120-$170
V6 DP	4K@60 / 2K@144 / 1080p@240	2x HDMI in, 1x DP out	Automatic	$120-$170
DC60	4K@120 / 2K@240 / 1080p@360	DP 1.4 + HDMI mixed	Automatic	$250-$350
DC500	4K@160 / 2K@355 / 1080p@540	Side A: HDMI 2.1 / Side B: DP 1.4	Automatic	~$500

Other brands

Brand	Max Resolution	Features	Price
GODLIKE	Varies by model	Wireless remote, EDID passthrough	$150-$250
CaptainDMA	4K@120 / 2K@240	Some models include USB capture card	$249-$399
Generic / Budget	2K@144 max (usually HDMI only)	Basic functionality	$50-$150

The DICHEN V6 is the most popular choice for its balance of price, features, and plug-and-play EDID. The DP output variant is preferred for high refresh rate monitors since DisplayPort 1.4 offers more bandwidth than HDMI 2.0.

Wiring setup

The fuser completely replaces the direct connection between your gaming PC's GPU and your monitor. Here's the layout:

Gaming PC GPU

HDMI

Input 1

Second PC GPU

HDMI

Input 2

FUSER

Output

Monitor

Connect your gaming PC's GPU HDMI output to the fuser's Input 1 / "Host" port.
Connect your second PC's GPU HDMI output to the fuser's Input 2 / "Sub" port.
Connect the fuser's output (HDMI or DP depending on model) to your gaming monitor.
Plug in the 12V DC power adapter that came with the fuser.
Power on both PCs. The fuser's indicator LEDs should light up confirming it's receiving signals.

All HDMI cables must be HDMI 2.0 rated or higher. A single older cable will limit the entire chain to 60Hz or 90Hz. If using a DP output fuser, the output cable must be DisplayPort 1.4.

If you want a personal monitor on either PC (for example, to control the second PC directly), connect it from that PC's GPU using a spare output. Do not route it through the fuser.

Resolution & color configuration

This is critical. Both PCs must output the exact same resolution and refresh rate, and that combination must be within the fuser's supported modes.

On your gaming PC, open Windows Display Settings and set your desired resolution and refresh rate (e.g. 1920x1080 @ 240Hz).
Open your GPU control panel (NVIDIA Control Panel or AMD Adrenalin). Under Display, confirm the resolution and refresh rate match.
Set the color depth to 8-bit RGB in the GPU control panel. This avoids color space mismatches that affect the keying.
Repeat the exact same settings on your second PC. Resolution, refresh rate, and color depth must be identical.
On your second PC, set the desktop wallpaper to solid black. This is what enables the fuser's transparency.

If the refresh rate you want isn't available in Windows, you can create a custom resolution in your GPU control panel. In NVIDIA Control Panel go to Display → Change Resolution → Customize. In AMD Adrenalin go to Display → Custom Resolutions.

EDID injection (older fusers only)

EDID injection writes your monitor's identity data into the fuser so both PCs see the correct display capabilities. On current generation fusers (V6, DC60, DC500, CaptainDMA 4K) this is fully automatic and you can skip this section.

For older models (V4, V5) or incompatible monitors:

Connect your gaming monitor directly to a PC (bypass the fuser).
Install and run Monitor Asset Manager (MonInfo.exe).
Select your display, verify the name is correct, and export the EDID as a .bin file via File → Save As.
Connect the fuser's USB-C port to the PC. Power on the fuser.
Open Device Manager and note the assigned COM port (e.g. COM9).
Open the EDID injection tool (EDID.exe for DICHEN fusers). Select the COM port, choose the target resolution, load the .bin file, and click Inject.
The screen goes black momentarily during injection. Once complete, disconnect USB-C and wire the fuser normally.

Firmware updates (DC500 and newer)

The DICHEN DC500 and some newer models support full firmware upgrades using the proprietary FWUPG_V1.2 tool. Firmware files are only available through DICHEN's official channels.

Connect the fuser's USB-C port to a PC and power on the fuser.
To enter upgrade mode, simultaneously press the power button and the front panel button. The indicator light stays red when in upgrade mode.
Open FWUPG_V1.2. Select the COM port and set the file extension to BIN.
Browse to the manufacturer supplied .BIN firmware file and click Send.
The indicator turns green during transfer. Wait for "Send Complete."

Never disconnect power or USB during a firmware flash. This risks bricking the device. Fuser firmware is proprietary and cannot be custom-built like DMA card firmware.

Button controls

Most fusers (especially DICHEN models) have physical buttons on the enclosure:

Button	Function
K1	Cycle through supported resolutions. Wait a few seconds after each press.
K2	Increase RGB cutout intensity (removes more near-black pixels from overlay).
K3	Decrease RGB cutout intensity. Hold to reset to default.
K4	Toggle fusion on/off. D2 indicator light shows fusion state.

Troubleshooting

Black screen or no signal

Check the fuser's indicator LEDs (H1 and H2 or RX0/RX1 on the DC500) to confirm whether each input is receiving a signal. If LEDs are off, verify cables are HDMI 2.0 rated and firmly seated. Use the K1 button to cycle through supported resolutions, waiting a few seconds after each press. If nothing works, disconnect the fuser, set the monitor to 1080p directly, reconnect, and cycle to the 1080p factory default.

Flickering or artifacts

Both PCs must be set to identical resolution and refresh rate via both Windows Display Settings and the GPU control panel. If the expected refresh rate isn't available, create a custom resolution. Verify all cables are HDMI 2.0 rated.

Overlay not appearing

Make sure fusion is toggled on (K4 button, D2 light should be on). Increase the RGB cutout intensity with K2. Verify the second PC's desktop wallpaper is set to solid black. Confirm both PCs are using 8-bit RGB color format in their GPU control panels.

Dark game areas being cut out

The RGB cutout is too aggressive. Decrease intensity with K3. This is a trade-off: lower cutout preserves dark game details but may show faint desktop remnants from the overlay PC.

Can't reach full refresh rate

NVIDIA GPUs sometimes enforce Display Stream Compression (DSC) protocols that conflict with the fuser's capabilities. This is a GPU-side limitation. Try dropping to a slightly lower refresh rate that doesn't trigger DSC. Also verify all cables meet the required spec for your target refresh rate.

DMA connection failures with fuser

If you're getting "VMM INIT FAILED" or frozen overlays, do a full cold shutdown of both PCs (not a restart). Wait 10 seconds, then boot fresh. DMA cards hang after fast reboots or sleep/wake cycles. Try different USB 3.0 ports and make sure the cable is data rated.

Tips for best results

Use quality cables

This is the number one source of issues. Every HDMI cable in the chain must be HDMI 2.0 or higher. A single bad cable limits everything. For DP output fusers, use a certified DP 1.4 cable.

Match everything exactly

Resolution, refresh rate, and color depth must be identical on both PCs. Even a small mismatch causes problems. Set both to 8-bit RGB in the GPU control panel.

Dial in the cutout level

Start at the default cutout intensity and adjust up or down depending on whether you see desktop bleed or dark game elements being cut. Every game and monitor combination is slightly different.

Use TeamViewer on the second PC

Since the second PC's display output goes entirely to the fuser, install TeamViewer or similar remote desktop software to control it from your gaming PC or a phone.

Always cold boot

If anything stops working mid-session, do a full cold shutdown of both PCs. Not a restart. DMA cards and fusers both prefer a clean boot sequence.